What is Mold?

Mold are fungi, tiny particles present everywhere, indoors or outdoors. They will grow from a form called spores. Spores will grow anywhere there is moisture, warm and humid conditions. Where humidity levels are high such as basements or showers. No one knows how many species of fungi exist but estimates range from tens of thousands to perhaps three hundred thousand or more.

What types of Mold are most common indoors?

Household molds come in a rainbow of colors, red, pink, green, blue green, brown, to black. The most common are Cladosporium, Penicillium, Aspergillus, Alernaria, and Mucor. The only toxic molds found in homes are two species of black mold Stachybotrys and Memmoniella. Of these two, Stachybotys is the most common.

Where does Mold grow?

Mold will grow in any place it finds as a good habitat. The spores are very tiny and spread easily through the air like seeds, forming colonies when they find the right conditions. They can enter homes from open doors, windows, heating, ventilation and air conditioning systems. They attach to people and animals, the best carriers. When they find warmth and moisture, they will grow.

Many building products provide suitable nutrients that encourage mold to grow. Wet cellulose materials including paper, paper products, cardboard, ceiling tiles, wood and wood products are particularly conductive for the growth of Mold. Paints, wallpaper, insulation, drywall, carpet, fabric and upholstery will also support Mold growth.

How can I tell if there is Mold is my home?

Look for visible mold growth. Mold often appears as discolored, staining or fuzzy growth on the surface of furnishings or building materials, walls, ceilings, paneling.

Look for signs of excessive moisture or water damage, water leaks, standing water, water staining, condensation problems. Look underneath carpets, behind wallpaper, vinyl flooring. Look and smell for orders. Mildew has been described as pungent or aromatic, an earthy or musty odor.

How can I be exposed to Mold?

When mold spores are disturbed they are released into the air. Exposure can occur through inhalation or directly touching the moldy materials or accidentally through ingestion.

What are the Health risks?

For some people, a relatively small number of mold spores can cause health problems. Infants, Children, Immune compromised patients, pregnant women, persons with existing respiratory conditions (allergies, chemical sensitive people, asthma and elderly are at higher risks for adverse health effects from mold. Allergic reactions are the most common health problems from mold exposure.

Remediation:

Before taking remedial action, it is important to identify the contamination sources and the expected results of the remediation.

The remediation process consists of 4 elements:

1. Identifying and correcting the source of contamination where or what is creating the moisture problem.
2. Controlling the contaminated area to prevent spreading of fungi.
3. Identify the source fungi through testing to lab analysis removal of the fungi, contaminated dust, debris and other unwanted materials within the house or building.
4. Treating the affected areas with antimicrobial chemicals if necessary or the removal of materials contaminated by fungi. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and North American Insulation Manufactures Association NAIMA recommend that any water damaged porous material such as insulation acting as an amplifier be removed rather than cleaned.

Testing

If laboratory testing finds aspergillis or stacybotrys c, the affected area must be removed by trained and qualified professionals, using the following methods:

1) Level 1: If the area of mold is 2 square feet or less.

• • 1. The area can be cleaned by individuals who have received training on proper clean up methods, protection and potential health hazards. These individuals should be free from asthma, allergy and immune disorders. Gloves and a half face respirator should be worn.
    2. Contaminated material should be placed in a sealed plastic bag before taking it out of the building. This will prevent contamination of other parts of the building.
    3. Surrounding areas should be cleaned with household bleach.

2) Level 2: If the area of mold is more than 2 square feet but less than 30 square feet. The recommendations are the same as Level 1, with the added precaution that moldy materials should be covered with plastic sheets and taped before any handling or removal is done. For instance, to remove the contaminated section of a moldy panel of gypsum board (sheetrock, wall board, plaster board) (measuring 4 feet by 8 feet,) the wall would need to have plastic sheeting taped over the affected area before the wallboard is cut. Once cut from the wall, that section should be placed within another layer of plastic before it is carried through the building for disposal.

3) Level 3: If the area of mold is more than 30 square feet. Personnel trained in handling of hazardous materials (such as asbestos) are necessary.

4) Level 4: If SC is shown to be present in the heating, ventilation, or air conditioning system. Recommendations are the same as for Level 3.

Removal of Mold and Mildew

Unpainted wood surfaces:

In damp warm poorly ventilated areas, new unseasoned lumber is particularly susceptible to mildew. Avoid using when possible. If found apply a dry heat source with circulating air. Dry wood surface then apply an antifungial solution before recovering walls. Allow at least ½ hour to penetrate wood. Make sure lumber is dry before covering up.

Painted Wood

Indoor wood surfaces covered with enamel or oil resin paint rarely mildew unless conditions are very favorable for mold growth. Mold will feed on the oil and minerals of paint causing discoloration or staining. Clean with disinfectants or antifungal products allow to dry. Repaint with Mildew resistant paint products. Do not use Mildew resistant paint on window sills, play pens, beds or toys- may be injurious to children.

In any case where wood is mold covered, use heat and air circulation to get wood as dry as possible. Remove badly infected wood and replace with wood treated or naturally decay resistant.

For mild cases a solution of 1 part Household bleach to 3 parts Water and 8-10 tablespoons of Washing Soda or Tsp. Trisodium phosphate in a gallon of water for heavier or serious problem use commercial disinfectants like X-14r or Lysol or other commercial brands of disinfectants.

If mold has grown under the paint or varnish, remove all the paint or varnish from stained area. Scrub with soap solution, rinse, then dry well before repainting or varnishing.

Dry Wall or Insulation:

Small areas of Dry Wall less than 2 square feet can be washed with an antifungal solution then dried thoroughly. If dry wall is mushy is should be removed and wrapped in plastic and disposed of properly. New dry wall reinstalled.

To remove larger areas of Dry wall 4’X8’ sheet the walls needs to be covered in plastic sheeting, taped over the affected area before the wallboard is cut. Once cut from the wall, wrap wallboard in plastic before it is carried through the building.

Large cleanups and removal of drywall and insulation should be treated similar to asbestos removal, taking precautions not to spread mold to inaffected areas.

What PPE should be worn?

Workers removing mold or mildew should use the type of PPE worn for asbestos removal.

DO NOT TOUCH MOLD OR MILDEW ITEMS WITH BARE HANDS.

DO NOT GET MOLD OR MOLD SPORES IN YOUR EYES.

DO NOT BREATHE IN MOLD OR MOLD SPORES.

Minimum protection is an N-95 respirator, gloves, paper tyvek and eye protection.

Debris disposal can be disposed at local landfill under normal conditions.

Once removal is complete, What then?

PREVENTION:

Keep things clean, get rid of excessive moisture by removing the cause, dry the air, and circulate the air.

Cluttered areas in closets, basements, attics cause poor air circulation and create moisture pockets. Changes in house or building temperatures also create moisture in the air which than get trapped in these pockets.

Air circulation can be created mechanically by using fans, dehumidifiers, air conditioners. Opening a door or window to let moisture-laden air from the building exhaust fans, burning a 60-100 watt light bulb.

Getting rid of the cause. The first step in mildew control is to try to control the dampness inside the home or building. Cooking, Laundering, bathing without adequate ventilation adds three gallons of water to the air everyday. Dampness in any structure is caused by condensation of moisture collection may mean that a corrective measure is needed in the attic, crawl space or basement walls.

Dry the air:

Mechanically, cool air holds less moisture than warm air. Properly installed air conditioning systems remove moisture from the air of the living space by taking up warm air, cooling it, (removing the moisture) and circulating cool dry air back into the room. The use of dehumidifiers in areas that are not conditioned especially basements. If necessary heat the house for a short time to get rid of excess dampness. Then open doors or window or use exhaust fan to let out moisture-laden air. In closets or small confined areas leave a light bulb burn 60-100 watt for a day or so. The heat of the bulb will prevent mildew if the space is not too large.

Chemically-

The use of moisture absorbing silica gel, actuated alumina, anhydrous calcium sulfate or a product called Molecular sieves may be used to dry the air. These chemicals are not harmful to fabrics and feel dry even when saturated. They hold half their weight of water. These products are designed for closets or small rooms that can be sealed by doors or trunk latches.

Anhydrous calcium chloride is available in small, white granules that hold twice their weight of water. This material cannot touch cloth or household textiles. Place the anhydrous calcium chloride in a simple cup shaped container made from nonrusting screen or waxed cardboard, perforated with small holes. Support the containers in an enameled pot so the liquid can drip away from the container, leaving the calcium chloride to take up more moisture. Place the pot in a closet, preferably on the top shelf and keep the door shut tight and sealed. One pound of calcium chloride will last from two weeks to two months depending on the humidity. When only liquid is left, discard and start over.

Circulate the air:

Air movement is very important to removing moisture. When the air outside is drier than the air inside, the air enters, takes up moisture and then forced back outside. When natural breezes are not sufficient, you can use electric fans. Poorly ventilated closets get damp and musty during continued wet weather and articles stored in them develop mildew. To improve this problem, open closet doors frequently or let stand open when possible or install a fan to circulate air, hang clothes loosely.

Cooling, laundry and bathing may add 3 gallons of water per day to the house.

Think exhaust fans for a solution.

Getting Rid of Musty Odors:

Musty odors, which indicate mold growth, are sometimes noticeable in basements and shower stalls. Take special precautions to get rid of musty odors as soon as possible to prevent further objectionable and damaging mold growth. Usually musty odors disappear if the area is well heated, ventilated and dried. If odors remain, the following treatments may be necessary.

Basements. Use chlorinated lime (commonly called chloride of lime or bleaching powder) to remove musty odors in basements. Sprinkle this chemical over the floor. Leave it until all mustiness disappears, then sweep it up.

Cement and Tile. Scrub cement floors, tiled walls and bathroom floors with a very dilute solution of sodium hypochlorite or any chlorine bleach available in grocery stores. Use one half to one cup of liquid household bleach to a gallon of water. Rinse with clear water and wipe as dry as possible.

Keep windows open until walls and floors are thoroughly dry. Aerosol sprays for cleaning and sanitizing bathroom walls are also available.

REMOVAL

Clothing and Fabrics

Remove mildew spots as soon as you discover them. Brush off surface growth outdoors to prevent scattering the spores in the house. Sun and air fabrics thoroughly. If any mildew spots remain, treat washable articles as described below. Dry-clean non-washable articles. Wash mildew-stained articles once with soap and water, rinse them well and dry them in the sun. If any stain remains, use one of the following bleaches:

• 1. Lemon juice and salt. Moisten stain with lemon juice, spread on salt and place in the sun to dry. Rinse thoroughly. Use with care on colored fabrics.
  2. Perborate bleach. Mix one tablespoon sodium perborate beach and one pint of water. Use hot water if it won’t damage the fabric, otherwise use lukewarm water. Sponge or soak the stained area. Allow to remain one half hour, then rinse. Test on colored garments first.
  3. Chlorine bleach. Mix two tablespoons of liquid chlorine bleach with one quart of warm water. Sponge the stain or soak the stained area in the solution. Allow the bleach to remain on the fabric from five to 15 minutes, then rinse.

An additional soaking in weak vinegar (two tablespoons to a cup of water) will stop further bleach action. Never use a chlorine bleach on silk, wool, or Spandex fabrics. Some fabrics with wash and wear or other special finishes may be damaged by chlorine bleaches. Articles with such finishes usually have a warning label or on a hang tag attached to the garment when it is sold.

Upholstered Articles, Mattresses

First, remove loose mold from outer covering by brushing. Do this outdoors if possible. Run a vacuum cleaner attachment over the surface to draw out more of the mold. Do everything conveniently possible to dry the article, such as using and electric heater. Sun and air the article to stop mold growth.

Another way to remove mildew from upholstered furniture is to wipe it with a cloth wrung out in a solution of one part denatured alcohol to one cup of water. Dry thoroughly.

Use a fungicide available in aerosol cans to get rid of musty odors and mildew. You can use vapors of paradichlorobenzene or paraformaldenhyde in closed areas. Mildew that has reached the padding of cushions and mattresses must be cleaned by a storage company that has facilities for fumigation.

Rugs and Carpets

To remove mildew stains sponge rugs and carpets with thick, dry soap or detergents suds and wipe clean with a damp cloth, or clean them with an electric shampoo machine.

If the problem is that of excess water (example- flooding due to burst pipes or washer overflow) the procedure is somewhat different. Immediate action is important to keep mildew from starting up. First, determine how much water has been absorbed by the carpet. To check, raise a portion of the carpet by pulling it off the installation strips at one corner. If the pad is wet, the entire carpet and pad will have to be removed. This is necessary so the sub-floor can dry, which in many cases prevents it from buckling.

When both carpet and pad have been saturated, the best recommendation is to have a professional pick up the carpet and transport it to the plant, where it can be cleaned, deodorized and dried. Some shrinkage should be expected (one to two inches). However is the carpet backing is in good repair, it can be re-stretched to fit the room by a power stretcher.

If professional services are not available, it is possible to dry a saturated carpet at home.

Using a hot water extraction unit, vacuum the carpet until no more water can be removed. Then place the carpet on a flat surface outside in the fresh air and sunshine. It is important to turn the rug or carpet upside down so that, as the carpet dries, any soil in the carpet backing or along the carpet fibers will be drawn toward the base of the carpet rather than to the surface.

Once the sub-flooring has dried, the dry pad and carpet can then be re-installed. If a musty odor is present in the padding, it is best to replace it. Do not re-install the padding, thinking that, in time the odor will disappear. Once the carpet is placed over the musty odor, the problem will only get worse, since the moisture cannot readily escape. Musty carpet can be deodorized by professional cleaners.

If only the carpet is wet, (padding and sub-flooring are dry) a hot water extraction vacuum may be sufficient to remove the water. These units can be rented in many cities from rental agencies, hardware and grocery stores. Do not attempt to use a home vacuum unless it is specifically designed as a wet vacuum.

Leather Goods:

To remove mildew from leather goods, wipe them with a cloth moistened with dilute alcohol (one cup denatured or rubbing alcohol to one cup water). If mildew remains, wash with thick suds made from a mild soap or detergent, saddle soap containing germicide or fungicide, then wipe with a damp cloth and dry in and airy place. Polish leather shoes and luggage with a good wax dressing.

Shoes contaminated with fungus growth on the inside often develop unpleasant odors. You can remove this kind of mildew with low-pressure sprays specially intended for freshening shoes; these sprays are available at shoe and department stores. Use these products as directed.

Paper and Books

Remove any dry, loose mold from paper with a clean, soft cloth. If mildewed paper is damp, dry it first. To dry wall paper, heat the room for several hours or even days to dry the plaster as well as the paper. Plaster should be dried slowly to prevent cracking. If the mildewed paper is washable, wipe it gently with a cloth wrung out of thick soapsuds, then with clear water. For more stubborn stains, wipe the area with a solution of one quart household bleach in one gallon of water then rinse with clear water. A commercial ink eradicator may also be useful for small stains.

If mildewed paper is unwashable, rub the wall with a commercial wallpaper cleaning dough. To avoid contrast, you will probably have to clean the entire wall.

To dry books, spread the pages out fan-wise to air. If the books are very damp, sprinkle cornstarch or talcum powder between the leaves to take up the moisture. Leave starch or powder on for several hours, then brush off.